When most viewers tuned into Heated Rivalry, they came for the abs. What kept them hooked? The costume design.
The Canadian HBO Max series has become a streaming sensation since its November premiere, landing consistently in the platform’s top 10.
Behind those now-iconic looks—from Shane Hollander’s bookish reading glasses to Ilya Rozanov’s leopard Jean Paul Gaultier club shirt—is costume designer Hanna Puley, who recently opened up about her philosophy on dressing closeted pro-hockey players navigating love, identity, and public perception.
Her approach? Forget fashion. Think character.
Costume Design Isn’t Fashion—It’s Psychology
Puley makes one thing clear from the start: she doesn’t approach her work through fashion’s lens.
I wanted it to still feel like it was him, where it’s like the choices that were made were still him, and they’re kind of still boring, and they’re still very contained in this heteronormative mask that is so clearly the thing that he just feels comfortable in.
For Shane, that means tuxedos, athletic wear, and plain black suits. His “hot” look? A simple white T-shirt during episode four’s nightclub scene.
It’s relatable because it’s grounded in reality. Many men feel their most confident in basics, and Puley leaned into that familiarity intentionally.
Shane’s Stylist Moment Was A Character Breakthrough
Episode five features Shane admitting he hired a stylist—a subtle but significant character development moment set during 2017’s tunnel-fit era.
Even with professional help, Shane’s style evolution remains modest. He finally ventures into patterns and trades his standard black suit for a tan jacket over a black tee (actually a full white suit in some scenes).
Puley describes this shift as Shane’s only departure from his comfort zone, noting that as the “brand-friendly” player with Rolex partnerships, Shane maintains his safe, marketable image.
Ilya’s “Slavic Fuckboy Aesthetic” Steals The Show
While Shane plays it safe, Russian hockey phenom Ilya Rozanov embraces risk through Rick Owens drop-crotch sweats, Diesel tank tops, and statement pieces that scream new money.
Fans have obsessed over what some dubbed his “Slavic man style”—indoor slides (custom leather lined with fur and bejeweled clips), Adidas tracksuits, and that unforgettable leopard Jean Paul Gaultier shirt.
I don’t know that anyone else could pull that shirt off in the world besides Ilya. It’s just so identifiable and also metaphorical to me. If I can put in little things that speak to me visually like the sense of him being this skinned predatory cat.
Puley explains that in the club scene where Ilya wears the leopard shirt, he’s powerless—watching his love from across the room with nothing he can do. The skinned cat represents lost power, vulnerability masked by showboating.
Brand Choices Reveal Character Identity
Ilya gravitates toward ostentatious wealth—Diesel, Hugo Boss, Adidas. These aren’t random selections.
Or probably also have brand partnerships with. You could see this is all just stuff that they’ve sent him.
Both characters likely receive boxes of free merchandise, and their brand associations become markers of identity and public perception.
Ilya’s willingness to take fashion risks reflects cultural differences and his inherently provocative personality. Meanwhile, Shane’s conservative choices mirror his discomfort existing outside athletic contexts.
Those Iconic Reading Glasses Required Executive Approval
Shane’s bookish clubmaster-style frames and Kip’s art-student glasses became unexpected fan favorites—but finding them wasn’t simple.
Working with a limited budget meant strategic choices. Puley tried 10 to 15 pairs for Shane, requiring approval from an executive producer who’s a devoted fan of Rachel Reid’s original books.
These things are important because they’re in the imagination of the people reading. They’re visualizing it and wanting to get [a pair] that kind of felt classic, but also nerdy in a way, and maybe a little bit outside of that athletic persona of who Shane is.
Those small artifacts—glasses, watch choices, even sock details—ground characters beyond archetype into fully realized individuals.
The Devil’s In Details Most Viewers Never Notice
Puley describes costume design as “building sandcastles that get washed away by the sea.” Entire scenes with meticulously dressed background characters often go unnoticed.
Episode three’s birthday party scene where Scott looks through the window? Everyone looked incredible. Most viewers barely registered the wardrobe.
That’s the costume designer’s paradox—success means invisibility. When costuming works perfectly, audiences focus on story and character rather than clothes.
Innuendo Extends Beyond Wardrobe
Puley collaborated with graphics designer Stephen Crowhurst on hockey team logos, intentionally incorporating innuendo from the beginning.
The show is so fun because there’s so much space for it, and people are starting to clock into what the different things look like.
These logos appeared across jerseys, locker rooms, and custom-made carpets—cross-departmental details requiring multiple collaborative conversations.
Season two promises Ottawa’s team, meaning more opportunities for playful visual storytelling.
Comfort Equals Confidence On Screen
When asked about Shane’s dream wardrobe, Puley believes any stylist would struggle against his inherent discomfort.
My feeling when I’m designing people and working with actors is when they feel the most comfortable, they look the best, when they look the most confident in what they wear.
Shane’s discomfort exists outside athletic contexts, making dramatic wardrobe evolution unrealistic for his character. His straight-cut suits with simple lapels contrast Ilya’s double-breasted, peak-lapel tuxedos in different colors.
Actors Hudson Taylor and Connor Storrie differ significantly from their characters—testament to their performances and Puley’s costume work creating believable identities.
Budget Constraints Sparked Creative Solutions
Without massive budgets for high-end pieces, Puley strategized carefully about where to invest.
She hopes season two brings brand partnerships, allowing access to designer pieces that elevate production value. For now, smart shopping and creative problem-solving delivered looks that feel authentic to each character’s economic reality and personal taste.
What Season Two Might Bring
With Heated Rivalry expanding to UK streaming January 10 and season two confirmed, Puley has opportunities to deepen visual storytelling.
Potential developments include:
- Brand partnerships providing higher-end wardrobe options
- Ottawa team introduction with new logo designs
- Character evolution reflected through subtle wardrobe shifts
- Continued exploration of identity through clothing choices
Puley’s work proves that effective costume design transcends fashion, creating visual psychology that grounds fantasy in relatable human experience. Whether viewers consciously notice Shane’s glasses or Ilya’s indoor slides, these details build worlds that feel lived-in and authentic—sandcastles worth building, even if waves eventually wash them away.